Wiring diagram and harness is now officially done for the '27. And it was actually fun to do. I was forced to look at books and diagrams, to wrap wire leads, and to install everything neatly and safely. The battery has room only in the trunk, so I decided to use the remote solenoid as sort of the main junction block for positive voltage. I ran huge wire from the battery terminal through and under the body, and up to the firewall outside. The big wire was installed with good protection and lots of supports. During this project I quickly realized that the body needed final mounting before I could secure the wiring that passes under, through, around, etc., the body. And this became a rewarding but tedious project its self. I did not realize the body would flex and bend as much as it did while making body mounts and securing it to the frame. But soon it was done, after much spacing, adjusting, etc. And now I have all the wiring hooked up, tested and working right.
The picture above is the harness diagram I made. It shows how I wired the buggy and what choices I made. The headlights are Dietz-type 7" sealed beams and the rears are '39 Ford. The front has turn signal lights from a '68 Mopar, and the turn signal switch is an old Signal Stat 900 that doesn't come with an indicator light on the switch. (That is why it only had 6 wires, not seven like all the plans I saw explained).
And the best reward was the test drive(s). The little gauges are tachometer, oil pressure and water temp, nothing more. And the test drive got me quite excited as well as it tought me to adjust and tighten the rear 4-link setup I made. A rear end has a tendency to hinge up and down if the 4-link bars aren't tightened. I knew that....no really...! It's good I was able to see the reason the driveshaft kept getting closer to the floor (and fuel line!). Nowadays my new plan is to remember what is in mock-up stage and what is not. You see, I have too many untightened bolts!
Notice the old headlight switch- I used "PARK" setting for low beams, and "HEAD" for high beams. This way I don't have to install a brights switch.
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